Santnerpass Hütte, South Tyrol hotel review

Designed by Senoner Tammerle Architekten, hotel Santnerpass Hütte offers the perfect off-grid retreat amid a Unesco-protected landscape

BY JOHN WEICH

To enjoy the otherworldly Santnerpass Hütte, one must first earn it. Teetering atop the Rosengarten massif in the western Dolomites, the ascent involves a steel-cabled via ferrata followed by a switchback schlep to 2,734 metres. Atop awaits an A-frame oasis clad in galvanised sheet steel whose colour changes with the sun – a lighthouse in a sea of stone.

Santnerpass Hütte, South Tyrol, Italy

Designed by Senoner Tammerle Architekten, the hut’s pared-down aesthetic contrasts sharply with the traditional huts that dot the Unesco-protected landscape. Whereas most feature heavily trinketed interiors and walls of Dolomite stone, Santnerpass Hütte features blond woods, thick glass and airy spaces. Purposely preened of clutter save for a guitar hanging on the wall, the refuge opens up the elements rather than keeping them at bay.

‘Because people mostly hike from hut to hut, we wanted to create a different experience – in architecture, the vegetarian menu, local wines,’ says Michel, who together with his wife Romina bought the hut in 2018 but only recently completed the painstaking rebuild that required the airlifting in of materials and the laying of a cargo gondola for provisions.

‘But it’s also personal,’ Romina adds. ‘We love modern architecture, but because we work inside all day we wanted to look out and enjoy the views as well.’

The new refuge replaces a stone hut built in 1956 by local mountain guide Giulio Gabrielli but closed in 2012. Having grown up nearby at his family’s Tiersler Alpl hut, Michel pursued the family for seven years before they agreed to sell. As if to honour the original hut’s heritage, the couple welcomes every climber who scales any of the nine pitches that end at their doorstep with a glass of grappa.

Senoner Tammerle Architekten’s triangular wooden framework is both practical and playful, constructed to withstand the harsh winters while expanding its footprint with a second story. Upstairs are 16 small guest rooms with shared bathrooms; downstairs a restaurant, bar and terrace with postcard-perfect vistas. With its glistening roof and triangular structure, the hut both blends in and stands out in its surroundings, a description that can be applied to the owners as well. Respectively 31 and 33 years old, with degrees in political science and fashion design, Michel and Romina bring a new aesthetic and energy to high-alpine lodging.

‘It’s a sign of the times,’ Romina says. ‘People want to enjoy the outdoors without sacrificing comfort or style.’

Santnerpass Hütte is located at 39050 Tiers, Autonomous Province of Bolzano – South Tyrol, Italy, santnerpass.com